We often get asked questions about shoes and happily try and help educate ladies about ‘everything shoes’. One thing that most ladies don’t understand is the actual process involved in making a shoe.  It is not a simple process and can literally take months from a sketch until it hits the streets.  I usually start with a sketch or series of photos of other styles / colour patterns which get sent to the manufacturer along with all the specifications so they can make a sample for me.  The specifications will include: colour and material of upper, colour of sole, heel, toe box, height & style of heel, any embellishment details, size to name a few.

Many, many emails later, a sample is finally made then sent to me. Eeach sample might get sent to me 1-2 more times before I am happy with the final product.  At is at this where we might either offer it for pre order or get a larger order made of that style.  More than 100 operations go into the construction of a shoe. The first and most important step is the creation of the last, a hand crafted wood or plastic replica of the human foot. It determines the contour of the arch and how evenly the wearers weight will be distributed throughout the foot, both of which are critical in establishing comfort.

A different last is required for each shoe style, whether the shoes is handmade or mass produced. You cannot just put this upper on this heel nor can you just chop off the heel to make is shorter as this affects the shape of the entire shoe (and yes I have been asked this question many times).

After recording as many as 35 measurements from a footprint, the make judges the symmetry of the toes, calculates the girth of the instep and ball of the foot and calculates the height of the big toe and contour of the instep. He also estimates how the foot will move inside the shoe.

The challenge is to address all these without compromising the architectural beauty of the shoe. For a heeled shoe, he/she visualises the heel height them determines the size of the throat. Next the appropriate height of the shoes quarter is established. Then using the last as guide, the patternmaker cuts out the shoes upper and lining bevels the edges to ensure a good fit and sews the pieces together. Next he constructs a toe box, adds the counter and soaks the leather so it will easily conform to the lines of the last. A master craftsman carefully positions the upper on the last, tautly stretching it before nailing it tightly into place. The upper dries on the last for 2 weeks before the sole and heel can be attached.

In the final steps, finishers trim the welt, pare the heel, burnish the sole and add the insole lining. Last but not least, the shoe is polished and buffed and ready for wear.

So please remember this when you are buying shoes and you can appreciate how much work goes into them and why they are well worth the investment.

written by:

Tanya Williams - Princess Chic Chic Executive Officer & Shoe lover, designer and collector of Princess Chic